Carsten Höller in Kinshasa _ Democratic Republic of the Congo

text by CARSTEN HÖLLER photography by PIERRE BJÖRK   I’m on the plane to Kinshasa with four Europeans, none of whom has ever been to sub-Saharan Africa before. N’Djili Airport has been poshed up since I was there last, in 2011. To my disappointment, the little tourist information kiosk, where all they had was one postcard with some lounging bonobos, has disappeared. Same for the chair that was screwed to a wall because it lacked hind legs. We say hello to Papa Wemba in the lounge — our father of the rumba, Notre Père Rumba, as one of his albums is called. He came on the same Air France flight as us. There used to be huge crowds outside the airport when he came back from Europe, but not anymore. We head straight to Zamba Playa, where Werrason is playing in front of a few hundred people. The five-lane highway…