kwang uh serves innovative fermentation-focused elaborations on classic korean fare his tiny restaurant baroo located in an east side los angeles strip mall is more discreet than one might expect from a michelin-starred chef there’s only a few dishes one table and no sign photography and interview by OLIVIER ZAHM OLIVIER ZAHM — How would you describe your cooking? Do you have a name for it? KWANG UH — I cannot describe it. Baroo is our first restaurant. I’m still in the process of defining — defining myself, defining my color of cooking or style of cooking. Right now, it’s going somewhere. OLIVIER ZAHM — But for artists like you, everything is a process. [Laughs] KWANG UH — It’s not… OLIVIER ZAHM — You don’t think you’re an artist? KWANG UH — No, because cooking is a bit different. We need to define art first. Art is the process of denying everything. Maybe that is…