alain passard interview by EMILIEN CRESPO photography by CÉCILE BORTOLETTI l’arpège, a three-michelin-star restaurant since 1996, brings fresh vegetables from the chef’s farms to the table, creating art every day EMILIEN CRESPO — How did you learn to cook? ALAIN PASSARD — My grandmother had a passion for cooking, a joie de vivre. She loved to host, and it’s with her that I did my first cooking and seasoning, when I was 12 or 13 years old. She had a wood-fired oven, and she taught me “the school of fire.” She cooked everything with wood. She would play with her senses. There’s no thermostat with wood! It’s all about hearing, seeing, touching. She gave me the power to tame and control the flame. That was my family education. And then, I was incredibly lucky to be accepted into the best establishment in Brittany at the time, Michel Kéréver’s Hostellerie du…