Spring / Summer 2026 Vivienne Westwood menswear presentation in Milan review by mavEric
With the Spring/Summer 2026 Men’s show — the first since 2017 — Andreas Kronthaler sends a love letter to chaos, to queer sensuality, to rebellious intelligence. And for once, this isn’t reheated archive material — it’s a reincarnation. Tailoring is back, but it’s been surgically altered. The trousers are as wide as gothic cathedral doors, the shoulders curve, and the waist is cinched to the point of exaggeration. It feels like a coked-up Prince of Wales crossed with the soul of Claude Montana reincarnated in a Berlin club at 5 a.m. This is post-gender power dressing: you can be a CEO, a drag queen, or a fashion vagabond — as long as you have presence. Kronthaler doesn’t design for men or women. He designs for silhouettes in revolt. For bodies that think. These dresses are political: they shatter binaries with as much tenderness as they do flair. It’s what Vivienne always stood for: clothing as an insult to the system and a love cry to life. He understood that the most beautiful tribute isn’t reviving the archives — and certainly not sanitizing or smoothing out Vivienne’s legacy — but carrying on the fight.
Text by mavERIC